Premium Baking Ingredients » L'Art De La Pâtisserie
As dean of the French Pastry School in Chicago, Chef Sébastien
Canonne knows a bit about butter. So it means something
when he says, “Plugrá is the only butter in our kitchens.”
When making pastry, Canonne emphasizes
how important it is that the ingredients have a
consistent composition–for butter, that means low
moisture content. “It’s not like cooking; when things
are in the oven, if they don’t work, there’s no way to
fix it,” he says.
When Canonne came to the
United States in 1992 after a post
cooking for former French President
François Mitterand, he first
encountered Plugrá European-
Style Butter. “I thought it was
French butter,” he recalls. “[At The French Pastry School], we
need something that matches the European-style butter we
learned to make recipes from in France.”
Plugrá has less moisture with an 82 percent fat content. The
result, thanks to Plugrá’s slow churning, is a consistent
outcome for “fluffier cakes and flakier pastries,”
Chef Canonne says, and also mentions the “intense
buttery flavor” he perceives in Plugrá.
Chef Canonne’s favorite way of taste-testing butters,
he says, is by making a classic Madeleine, whose
only ingredients are butter, eggs,
sugar, and baking powder. “When
you use a large amount of butter,
you need it to deliver on flavor.” –JM