n a time long, long ago, when spirits ruled the restaurant beverage program, it was rare to find a wine list with more choices than one white, one rosé, and one red. Only top-end white tablecloth restaurants offered a multichoice wine list, with the majority of selections being French. These specialized lists, although not recognized as such, were the precursors to today’s regional wine list.

As American diners grow savvier about drinking and eating, the challenge becomes more difficult for beverage managers and wine buyers to fashion a contemporary wine list. Being sensitive to local growers and purveyors makes good business sense, while also appealing to the diners’ emotional connection to a region and its products and people.

When Chef Charlie Palmer opened Dry Creek Kitchen in the Healdsburg Hotel, Sonoma County, California, in October 2001, word spread quickly about two intriguing features of the wine list: Only Sonoma County wines are offered, and Dry Creek Kitchen has a no-corkage policy for the first two bottles of Sonoma County wine brought into the restaurant by the diner. “Charlie is a believer in local products and the artisanal concept,” says Drew Munro, wine director for Dry Creek Kitchen. “He strongly supports local products and feels that being in the middle of Sonoma wine country gives the restaurant a comfortable niche.”

[MOSTLY] PROS & CONS
Far from being a limiting factor for attracting customers, Munro believes the regional wine list brings people to the restaurant. “Our customers are curious about local wines; they want to know more about the wineries and winemakers. We get a lot of positive feedback on the list.” Another advantage is that Munro features a wide range of small Sonoma wineries and often gets special wines for the Dry Creek Kitchen wine list that other restaurants have trouble obtaining.

Munro points out, though, that maintaining a regional list limits the range of wines made from certain grapes. “I miss out on certain varieties that are scarce or not grown in Sonoma County, like Nebbiolo, the grape of Barolo and Barbaresco.” And while he finds that Sonoma produces wines in many different styles, appealing to the various dishes on the food menu, the variety of wine styles is limited to those produced in Sonoma County. How-ever, overcoming this disadvantage can be minor for the ambitious wine buyer.

Although Munro inherited a wine list from Sullivan’s Steak House in Austin when he came to Dry Creek Kitchen in 2005, he has built it to 650 individual wines, with a separate section for the 14-seat Wine Library. He is a strong believer that size does matter. “A large wine list is visually impressive, and customers enjoy leafing through the list.”

Matching wines with the menu selections is also important. Munro says of the 650 wines on the list, more than 200 are Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from the nearby Russian River Valley, one of the hallmark regions in California for those varieties. “Many of these Russian River Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs match very well with our style of fresh entrées.”

Munro believes that when building a regional wine list, selecting wines that suit various tastes while supporting the people who support the restaurant is vital. “You must have representative wines from all local regions, with high-profile wines but also good wines priced fairly.” Munro’s selections range from cool climate Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs of Carneros and Russian River Valley to richer Cabernet Sauvignons of Alexander Valley.

CORKAGE FEES
Corkage fees for bottles of wine brought to the restaurant by customers is an emotional policy. In California Wine Country, fees range from a modest $10 to a breathtaking $50 per bottle. Dry Creek Kitchen, however, has a refreshing approach. “There is no charge for the first two bottles of Sonoma County wines, and we charge $20 for other wines,” says Munro. Add to that liberal policy the fact that Dry Creek Kitchen serves all wines in Schott Zweisel crystal glassware. “People like goodquality wine glasses; they look good on the table and treat the wines right,” he says.

Another issue that keeps tongues wagging is natural cork versus screw caps. When screw cap closures first appeared on wine bottles, the fear was that the American wine drinker would resist, associating screw caps with inferior wine. As more upscale wines showed up in the U.S. wine market with screw caps, especially from Australia and New Zealand, resistance evaporated. Still, Munro says that, while many Sonoma County wines are screw cap, it isn’t a major question in Dry Creek Kitchen since tradition has a strong hold on wine presentation. “Personally, I don’t mind screw caps, but the cork seems to please our customers.”

Munro keeps his finger on the ever-changing pulse of Sonoma County winemaking by visiting wineries and talking to winemakers. “It helps you understand what is unique about their wines and how they might fit into the restaurant wine and food program. It’s a challenging and sometimes difficult job, but working for Charlie Palmer has given me an opportunity to build the Dry Creek Kitchen wine program that reflects a strong local tie.”