Chef Michael Foley
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sometimes bike over
to a favorite French
bistro, Le Bouchon,
owned by Jean Claude
Poilevey, from just
outside Lyon in Burgundy.
Assertive, arrogant, funny,
and deservedly assured as
chef and proprietor, he
offers a very respectable
wine list.
We sit and talk, revering
great chefs like Alain Chapel
and Bernard Loiseau. But the reason we listen to his
timeless banter on sex, love, French beauties,
cigarettes, children, cars, and banking is that he
serves really good, fairly priced food in an authentic
way. He is a kick of a cook and personality, his
French attitude being part of the cachet. No one is
safe from being the butt of his jokes. But he delivers
on value and quality—and fun.
At Le Bouchon on Monday night, it’s half-price
bottle night. Originating in local restaurants and
expanded into hotels, half-price wine night brings
customers out in droves. It takes time to catch
clients’ attention, but patience grows business. While
there recently, I was surrounded by wine notable
clients. Most make their living selling, pontificating,
and drinking the wine flavors of the world. So it
seemed only fitting that I engage them as a template
from what I have seen recently from my bike—the
change of seasons.
The leaves, air, dress, and food all morph into
seasonal fall/winter cooking. I calculate our taste buds are moving from 65 percent summer whites to 65 percent fall/winter
reds. Sylvaners, Albarino, Pinot Grigio, Tocai Friulia, Sauvignon Blanc, and more
are shifting to weighty white Rhones, heavier Viognier, and rustic Juras. And
while Jean Claude sees no reason to add anything but French wines to his list,
many of us want to travel to countries, including France, boasting soil richness,
bark, leather, and deep richness in herb, spice, and dark fruit. We find poignant
reasons to list reds for this next season and dishes we love to cook and eat.
Whether it’s Monday night half-price bottle night at your favorite bouchon,
Monday night football, or just any reason, the season is filled with holidays and
dishes calling for reds. During October, November, December, and January—no
matter where in the world you call home—try a few of these.
BELINDA CHANG, director of wine and spirits, Cenitare, www.cenitare.com Masciarelli and La Valentina Abruzzo Montepulciano—clams casino
Collelungo or Ricasoli Chianti Classico (high Sangiovese)—grilled radicchio,
garlic vinaigrette Brunello by Gaja, La Fiorita, Livio Sassetti—roast potato, sea salt, truffle butter
Barbaera Vivace—Shaved Asparagaus and Pecorino Toscano Salad
CHRISTINE BLUMMER, president,Winedive Enterprises,www.winedivaent.com DiGiovanna Nerello Mascalese Rosato, 2005—arugula, strawberries,
sorgonzola, pine nuts, balsamic Torre Quarto Don Marcello Puglia Rosso, 2004—polenta with capocollo, robiola
and ramps Villa Carafa Aglianico Sannio, 2003—portabella with sausage, spinach,
parmesan and tomato Marco Parusso Barolo, 2001—braised short ribs Provencale, crème fraiche
mashed potatoes
REBECCA LOEWY, sommelier/wine consultant Dundee Hills Pinot Noir—pan seared duck breast and wild mushroom ragout
Aglianicao del Vulture—baked meat lasagna Vacqueryas—herbed beef stew Heathcote Shiraz—grilled sausage and onions
LYNDA JO SHLAES, wine director, Convito Italiano, www.convitoitaliano.com Ronchi Barbaresco, 2000—traditional Bolognese with a touch of cinnamon Masi Amarone Costasera—extra aged parmesan reggiano (24 months aged)
Basilium Pipoli Rosso Aglianico—pasta and arrabiata sauce Capessana Carmignano—grilled T-bone with rosemary and olive oil
PATRICK FEGAN, director, the Chicago Wine School, www.wineschool.com Chalk Hill Merlot, 2002—traditional beef stew to lamb chops
Faiveley Mercurey, Domaine de la Crois Jacquelet, 2002—roast fowl, chicken,
duck, quail Provenance ‘Oakville’ Cabernet Sauvignon—medium-rare steak
Trinitas Old Vine Cuvee Contra Costa County—grilled meat or a favorite hard cheese
TODD HESS, president, H2Vino, www.h2vino.com Collelceto, Rosso di Montalcino, 2003—roast vegetable pizza
Barolo Bussia, 2001—osso bucco Uva di Troia, Torre Quarto, Puglia—pork or lamb shoulder slow roasted with garlic
Fucca Titolo (Aglianico)—game, aged beef and lamb rack with root vegetables
BOB RODINE, Wine and Menu Consultant, Laserlist: bobzaguy@yahoo.com Spanish Monastrell (Mouvedre)—sauteed calves liver with pancetta and onions
French Cabernet Franc—roast pork with raspberry lemongrass sauce
Australian Shiraz—Italian herbed roast piglet
Argentine Malbec—grilled rabbit with cinnamon/rosemary/sherry marinade
South African Pinotage—curried lamb, mango and cilantro chutney with raisin
MARK BANN, Wine Consultant, Binny’s Wine Shops, Chicago Lan Rioja, Gan Riserva 1996—grilled root winter vegetables: squash, turnip,
sweet potato
Taurino Salice Salentino Riserva 2001—stuffed cabbage or cabbage dishes
Guigal Cotes du Rhone, 2003—authentically flavored lamb dishes from any
ethnic influence: curried lamb, mango and cilantro chutney with raisin
Michael Foley, a celebrated American chef, has three decades of owner/operator hotel, winery, and
restaurant experience. Based in Chicago, he promotes American products with regional and creative cooking.
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