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All Back Issues » November/December 2006 Issue

Make Mine RED
for the Holidays
 


Chef Michael Foley

 


sometimes bike over to a favorite French bistro, Le Bouchon, owned by Jean Claude Poilevey, from just outside Lyon in Burgundy. Assertive, arrogant, funny, and deservedly assured as chef and proprietor, he offers a very respectable wine list.

We sit and talk, revering great chefs like Alain Chapel and Bernard Loiseau. But the reason we listen to his timeless banter on sex, love, French beauties, cigarettes, children, cars, and banking is that he serves really good, fairly priced food in an authentic way. He is a kick of a cook and personality, his French attitude being part of the cachet. No one is safe from being the butt of his jokes. But he delivers on value and quality—and fun.

At Le Bouchon on Monday night, it’s half-price bottle night. Originating in local restaurants and expanded into hotels, half-price wine night brings customers out in droves. It takes time to catch clients’ attention, but patience grows business. While there recently, I was surrounded by wine notable clients. Most make their living selling, pontificating, and drinking the wine flavors of the world. So it seemed only fitting that I engage them as a template from what I have seen recently from my bike—the change of seasons.

The leaves, air, dress, and food all morph into seasonal fall/winter cooking. I calculate our taste buds are moving from 65 percent summer whites to 65 percent fall/winter reds. Sylvaners, Albarino, Pinot Grigio, Tocai Friulia, Sauvignon Blanc, and more are shifting to weighty white Rhones, heavier Viognier, and rustic Juras. And while Jean Claude sees no reason to add anything but French wines to his list, many of us want to travel to countries, including France, boasting soil richness, bark, leather, and deep richness in herb, spice, and dark fruit. We find poignant reasons to list reds for this next season and dishes we love to cook and eat.

Whether it’s Monday night half-price bottle night at your favorite bouchon, Monday night football, or just any reason, the season is filled with holidays and dishes calling for reds. During October, November, December, and January—no matter where in the world you call home—try a few of these.

BELINDA CHANG, director of wine and spirits, Cenitare, www.cenitare.com
Masciarelli and La Valentina Abruzzo Montepulciano—clams casino Collelungo or Ricasoli Chianti Classico (high Sangiovese)—grilled radicchio, garlic vinaigrette
Brunello by Gaja, La Fiorita, Livio Sassetti—roast potato, sea salt, truffle butter Barbaera Vivace—Shaved Asparagaus and Pecorino Toscano Salad

CHRISTINE BLUMMER, president,Winedive Enterprises,www.winedivaent.com
DiGiovanna Nerello Mascalese Rosato, 2005—arugula, strawberries, sorgonzola, pine nuts, balsamic
Torre Quarto Don Marcello Puglia Rosso, 2004—polenta with capocollo, robiola and ramps
Villa Carafa Aglianico Sannio, 2003—portabella with sausage, spinach, parmesan and tomato
Marco Parusso Barolo, 2001—braised short ribs Provencale, crème fraiche mashed potatoes

REBECCA LOEWY, sommelier/wine consultant
Dundee Hills Pinot Noir—pan seared duck breast and wild mushroom ragout Aglianicao del Vulture—baked meat lasagna
Vacqueryas—herbed beef stew
Heathcote Shiraz—grilled sausage and onions

LYNDA JO SHLAES, wine director, Convito Italiano, www.convitoitaliano.com
Ronchi Barbaresco, 2000—traditional Bolognese with a touch of cinnamon
Masi Amarone Costasera—extra aged parmesan reggiano (24 months aged)
Basilium Pipoli Rosso Aglianico—pasta and arrabiata sauce
Capessana Carmignano—grilled T-bone with rosemary and olive oil

PATRICK FEGAN, director, the Chicago Wine School, www.wineschool.com
Chalk Hill Merlot, 2002—traditional beef stew to lamb chops
Faiveley Mercurey, Domaine de la Crois Jacquelet, 2002—roast fowl, chicken, duck, quail
Provenance ‘Oakville’ Cabernet Sauvignon—medium-rare steak
Trinitas Old Vine Cuvee Contra Costa County—grilled meat or a favorite hard cheese

TODD HESS, president, H2Vino, www.h2vino.com
Collelceto, Rosso di Montalcino, 2003—roast vegetable pizza
Barolo Bussia, 2001—osso bucco
Uva di Troia, Torre Quarto, Puglia—pork or lamb shoulder slow roasted with garlic
Fucca Titolo (Aglianico)—game, aged beef and lamb rack with root vegetables

BOB RODINE, Wine and Menu Consultant, Laserlist: bobzaguy@yahoo.com
Spanish Monastrell (Mouvedre)—sauteed calves liver with pancetta and onions French Cabernet Franc—roast pork with raspberry lemongrass sauce Australian Shiraz—Italian herbed roast piglet Argentine Malbec—grilled rabbit with cinnamon/rosemary/sherry marinade South African Pinotage—curried lamb, mango and cilantro chutney with raisin

MARK BANN, Wine Consultant, Binny’s Wine Shops, Chicago
Lan Rioja, Gan Riserva 1996—grilled root winter vegetables: squash, turnip, sweet potato
Taurino Salice Salentino Riserva 2001—stuffed cabbage or cabbage dishes Guigal Cotes du Rhone, 2003—authentically flavored lamb dishes from any ethnic influence: curried lamb, mango and cilantro chutney with raisin

Michael Foley, a celebrated American chef, has three decades of owner/operator hotel, winery, and restaurant experience. Based in Chicago, he promotes American products with regional and creative cooking.

     
  
        











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