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John Mariani
Restaurant critic and author of America Eats Out
“I’d say that half, if not more, of
the most exciting restaurants in
America these days are being
opened in hotels for the simple
reason that they’re the ones that
can bankroll them. My favorites
include Cut at the Regis Beverly
Wilshire in Los Angeles, the
Summit at the Broadmoor in
Colorado Springs, and the Georgian
Room at Sea Island, Georgia. All
three are sumptuous. Many
celebrity steakhouses have opened,
but Cut is definitely a cut above the
rest. First, it doesn’t look like any
steakhouse you’ve ever seen. Its
beautiful décor is light and
hospitable to women—none of the
typical steakhouse macho. They did
it right and it’s jammed all the time.
When the Broadmoor spent
$80 million to renovate, they kept its older conservative Continental dining
rooms, but they also built the Summit to attract a younger generation. Its
design is a knock-out and the cuisine is contemporary. And the Georgian
Room’s décor is done to a T. When they brought in one of the best young
chefs in America—Scott Crawford—it immediately became one of the best
restaurants in the U.S.”
Laura Taxel
Freelance food journalist and editor of Feast! magazine
“My number one pick is Tendrils at the Cave B Inn at Sagecliffe, Quincy,
Washington. This combination estate winery and hotel is located on a high
bluff overlooking the Columbia River Gorge. The executive chef, Fernando
Divina, grew up in the Yakima Valley and he’s built a menu around Pacific
Northwest cuisine. He uses local and regional products, such as wild
salmon and fresh produce. He takes simple things like apples grown on the
property, roasts them, and makes a sorbet. The place is luxurious without
being pretentious. It’s world-class cuisine but you can show in jeans. My
second choice is Sam Snead’s, a conventional looking restaurant
overlooking the golf course at the Greenbriar in West Virginia. The look of
the place suggests the menu will feature a plain T-bone steak or pork chops.
Instead, the chef serves standard American fare with a creative twist. One
example is a risotto made with corn (instead of rice) and chanterelles,
which is astonishing. Along with gorgeous views of the golf course, the
place offers a superb wine list and white glove service. And you can even
wear shorts.”
Gael Greene
New York Magazine’s insatiable critic and author of Insatiable: Tales from a Life
of Delicious Excess
“Respect for hotel restaurants has come a long way in the past few
decades. Currently I count among my NYC favorites: Jean Georges at the
Trump International; Café Boulud at the Surrey Hotel, where Chef Daniel
Boulud’s theme was seasonal (before that became a cliché); and Town at
the Chambers Hotel with its glamorous midtown setting. Beyond New
York, my favorites include the Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare at Wynn’s in
Las Vegas (where the owners indulge the chef with Mediterranean sea
creatures flown in daily); and in Paris, the Le Comtoir du Relais at the
Le Relais de Saint Germain—worth the wait in line for Chef Yves
Camdeborde’s rustic cooking, and l’Atelier du Robuchon in the Hotel Pont
Royal—the most elegant, exciting, and inconvenient (no reservations)
eating at a counter I’ve ever known.”
Phil Vettel
Restaurant critic for the Chicago Tribune
“A favorite of mine in Chicago is NoMI (named for North Michigan
Avenue) in the Park Hyatt, the flagship hotel of the Hyatt chain. The former
talented chef, Sandro Gamba, created an international menu—still French
at its core, but with sushi. The new and equally talented chef, Christophe
David, has a real eye for presentations. In addition to the outstanding food,
it’s located on the seventh floor, which juts out to end in an arc. The best
tables are located in front of the bay window offering one of the best views
of the city. Outside of Chicago, I count the Inn at Little Washington in
Virginia as a top culinary experience. The food is American but with
whimsical touches—such as a slab of charred tuna, capped with foie gras,
and served on top of a burgundy sauce. The dish is called, ‘Tuna Pretending
to be Filet Mignon.’ The wine list is also outstanding, and the service
borders on the clairvoyant.”
Douglas Trattner
Dining editor, Cleveland Free Times, and freelance food writer
“Certainly hotel dining has gotten a lot better over the years. Locally,
one of my favorites is Classics at the InterContinental Hotel. It offers a
classy atmosphere, exquisite service, and is Ohio’s only AAA award-winning
restaurant. The superlative classic Continental food has a regional twist,
such as using fresh fish from Lake Erie. I love that they include at least three
or four foie gras presentations on the menu, and they have one of the most
incredible cheese carts I’ve ever seen. Another of my favorites is Simon
Kitchen & Bar in the Hard Rock Hotel in Las Vegas. This is very different
from some of those ridiculous three-ring circus-style restaurants featuring
celebrity chefs that are so ubiquitous there. Kerry Simon, the chef, is super
talented and he serves progressive American cuisine that is spot-on in a
well-designed but not over-the-top atmosphere.”
Pam Leigh is a frequent contributor to HOTEL F&B EXECUTIVE.
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