
Equinox Executive Chef Jeffrey Russell invested in
refurbished donut-making equipment and spent
a month perfecting a cider donut recipe like that
he remembered from childhood. “It’s creating a
tradition,” Russell says. “I knew it was a little niche
we could have that would be relatively inexpensive.” |
If something is good enough to leave an
indelible impression on a chef, chances are it
will also create a lasting memory for others.
And nothing builds repeat business like something
guests absolutely can’t forget—and must
experience again.
Executive Chef Jeffrey Russell did not let skepticism
and lack of funds stop him from bringing
homemade cider doughnuts to the breakfast table
at the Equinox Resort & Spa in Manchester, Vermont.
Since their debut last fall, the humble treats
have become a real crowd-pleaser.
Growing up in New England and vacationing
in Vermont, Russell had enjoyed cider doughnuts
at farm stands and sugar shacks. He knew they
would evoke memories and create a new generation
of fans. “I wanted to create those memories for
the kids who stay here,” says Russell, who visited
Equinox as a kid, and came on board two years
ago. “I felt they were missing out on a big treat of
mine as a child. When they get older, they’ll get
married here and bring their kids here. It’s creating
a tradition. I knew it was a little niche we could
have that would be relatively inexpensive.”
Yet when Russell first proposed the idea, not
everyone agreed. Some of Russell’s colleagues
thought he was foolish to pursue something so
mundane. Furthermore, the cost of a new doughnut
machine, around $11,000, was not in the
budget. Undeterred, Russell found a refurbished
Donut Robot on eBay that he purchased with his
own money for $1,700. To accommodate it in the
pastry kitchen, engineering staff spent two weeks
putting in new wiring and special safety boxes following
electrical code.
To recreate the treat of his youth, Russell spent a
month perfecting a recipe for doughnuts that look
rustic and imperfect on the outside, with a slightly
crisp texture and a touch of maple syrup.
The first day staff made the doughnuts, a group
in the conference room below the kitchen caught
the baking aroma as it wafted into the room
through the ventilation system. Russell knew he
was on to something when staff offered guests
samples and “they went crazy.”
Two employees are required to make doughnuts.
They fry small batches every 30 minutes, at
a cost of five cents each. The machine is capable
of making up to 144 dozen doughnuts an hour,
and it’s not unheard of for staff to make up to 500
dozen on a busy weekend, Russell says.
To make the doughnuts even more special, they
are served warm. Guests can enjoy them on the
breakfast buffet and also buy them packaged for
$6 a dozen in the gift shop. “I haven’t met anybody
who doesn’t like a cider doughnut, especially when
it’s warm,” says Mark O’Neill, Equinox general
manager.
Guests who’ve described them as “addicting”
place orders for packaged doughnuts to take home on their check-out
days. Restaurant managers initially feared selling doughnuts out of
the gift shop would hurt breakfast sales, but that hasn’t happened,
O’Neill says. Guests eat breakfast, then buy a bag of doughnuts with
cider at the gift shop to enjoy later. Skiers who wouldn’t normally have
breakfast at the resort buy doughnuts on their way to the slopes. Gift
shop sales tripled the first weekend doughnuts were offered, and the
delectables continue to drive business.
The doughnuts were added to the buffet at no additional cost to
guests. They’re a good fit for Equinox, which has been using more
homegrown ingredients under Russell’s direction. “It adds to the
Vermont style,” says Doreen Sachau, who manages the restaurants and
banquet department.
Chef Russell, who did get reimbursed for the doughnut machine,
is developing other products including jelly doughnuts made from
seasonal fruits and cider doughnut bread pudding. Hotel chefs in
other markets should consider doughnuts, Russell says.
“Put your own indigenous touch on your doughnuts, and they’ll be
a hit wherever you go,” he advises. “Doughnuts can work anywhere.”
Lynne Miller of Brooklyn, New York, writes about foodservice, real estate,
design, and other topics for several professional publications.
|