on-industry people often smile when they hear the term “water sommelier.” And, not long ago, someone jokingly commented that “people will buy anything … you could even sell some fools water.” Now we know that is true. But we also know that with the accelerated growth of a discerning public in the food & beverage industry, water is considered neither a joke—nor a fool’s purchase.

There are several components to selling water, not least of which is presentation. One of the most memorable experiences of a small Japanese/French restaurant in SoHo is sitting at their petite bar having a glass of wine and drinking water poured from a sensuous frosted sea-green bottle. It is still a novelty— and the water presentation is remembered long past the wine.

But water, no longer an unassuming presence at a meal, has stepped into the pairing arena. And to get started, here are guidelines adapted from the Water Codex, published by Nestlé Waters North America. It offers some “masterful” suggestions.

The practice of pairing water, wine, and food involves a wide set of variables, and the solutions, in terms of taste, are practically limitless. Water presents a constant set of characteristics, and wine boasts a range of smell and taste factors that vary considerably. Food and wine interact to impart different taste characteristics through each other, while water is meant to cleanse the palate to enhance the interacting characteristics of food and wine. As with pairing wine and food, water should be paired to not overpower the wine.

HEAVY-BODIED WATERS
A heavy-bodied water has an abundance of fine bubbles that leave the tastebuds tingling with freshness, followed by mild acidity that stimulates salivation. This water has commendable structure and leaves a persistent and gratifying sensation.

A heavy-bodied water is meant to be paired with full-bodied wines rich in tannins and high in acid so the two liquids do not impose on each other. And foods heavy in flavor and structure should be paired with water and wine of these characteristics.

LIGHT-BODIED WATERS
A light-bodied water (still) is low acid and carries few trace minerals, thereby leaving a taste that is light, soft, and velvety. The first sip has a pleasant fresh taste with a delicate finish. A lighter-bodied water should be paired with soft suave wine with moderate alcohol and food that is lighter in flavor and subtle in aromas.

The fundamental rule in pursuing, achieving, and optimizing pleasure in dining is that the flavor of the water, wine, or food should not prevail one over the other. By following this principle, for food and wines not very intense or persistent in their sensations, the accompanying water must be still—with low residual minerals. Foods and wines that are structured, complex, and have full persistent flavors and aromas should be matched with water that is slightly acidic with pleasant mediumsized bubbles.

GUIDELINES
The following are a few guidelines from the Water Codex on how and what to choose when pairing water, wine, and food. Each individual, however, has a unique sensory experience when dining and the following should be taken as a rule of thumb only.

• Fresh and fruity white wines. These wines, which include Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris, are fragrant and reminiscent of fruits. They are best consumed with salads or grilled white fish without heavy sauce. A type of chicken dish would be a sauté chicken breast with lemon, butter, and capers. A light-bodied water is recommended.
• Barrel-aged white wines. In the United States, this wine is commonly Chardonnay, which is light in tone, fruity, spicey, and generally higher in alcohol than other white wines. It pairs well with dishes featuring dairy, poultry, lighter pastas, and any seafood. A lightbodied water is recommended.
• Lighter-bodied red wines. In the United States, the most common type of lighter-bodied red wine is Pinot Noir, which has characteristics of mature fruit and spices that are well-balanced on the taste spectrum, therefore, giving a well-appreciated and balanced wine that is pleasant, yet not too strong. Pinot Noir pairs well with just about any dish due to its broad characteristics but is best enjoyed with veal, lamb, pasta of all types and sauces, and barbecue dishes. And it is excellent with salmon. Due to the wide variety of dishes that pair well with Pinot Noir, a heavy-bodied water is recommended.
• Full-bodied red wines. These wines have strong personality and complex bouquets that tend to be high in tannins, leaving an edgy taste. Older aged red wines can be smooth and mellow as tannins dissipate, full of fruit and spice. A heavy-bodied water is the water to be consumed with this wine, as it is typically paired with heavy food such as red meat and heavy pasta. The varietals typically associated with these style wines are Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, and Syrah/Shiraz.

THE MASTERS SAY...
The opinions of 11 wine sommeliers of international renown provide elegant descriptions to further guide you in a pairing journey. They each chose one particular wine to pair with water. Examples:

• Marcus del Monego, the Best Sommelier of the World in 1998, discusses Reisling Spatlese. “…. despite the nicely delayed intensity of the taste, the fluid seems to float, such is its lightness.” He suggests pairing this with a light-bodied water.
• According to Serge Dubs, Best Sommelier of 1989, “French Champagne has an abundant mousse with fine and persistent bubbles … the concluding sensations consist of a persistent note of freshness that combines equally well with full- or light-bodied waters.” He says harmonization with light-bodied water is ideal if the goal is to take the edge off the Champagne. If the purpose is to accentuate the taste and freshness, he suggests using a heavier-bodied water. “If served with dessert, the choice of water is determined by the third variable of the type of dessert on the menu.”
• Daniella Kramaric, Best Sommelier of Croatia 2000 and 2001, encourages using a heavy-bodied water with Coonawarra Shiraz. “Its deep red hues and an aroma tinged with spices, flowers, and fruit buds such as blackberry and eucalyptus create an intensity that mingles perfectly with a heavy-bodied water.