What makes a beer, wine, and spirits program successful?
A key aspect of any successful beverage program is that it must create some talking points to stand out from the competition. For example, we recently opened a restaurant in Vancouver called YEW. The designer, Jennifer Johanson of Engstrom Design Group in San Francisco, placed a strong emphasis on wine. Vancouver diners are not only knowledgeable about wines but proud of the excellent wines produced in the Okanagan Valley, British Columbia. Our wine program had to reflect this, so we decided to offer every wine on the list (about 200) by the glass.

How do you select wines for your beverage program?
Wineries are invited to submit wines for a tasting that occurs every two years. We select about 20 wines for inclusion on our banquet and by-the-glass lists. If successful, the winery is more or less guaranteed placement on every wine list at about 28 Four Seasons hotels in the Americas. The program lets us offer high-quality wines at reasonable prices, while generating a good margin for the hotels.

Do you think in terms of New World and Old World wines when developing a wine program?
Lately, we are seeing more wines listed according to style. I believe this is the trend of the future, as it helps the consumer identify a wine that most appropriately fits the food they order. For example, a list describing white wines as “light and fruity” might include Sauvignon Blancs, Pinot Grigios, and Rieslings. This removes the guesswork and is less intimidating for guests.

What is special about your spirits program?
It’s as much about creating the “wow” as it is about doing the basics well. Our resort in Great Exuma, for example, is developing the largest selection of rums in the Bahamas, and this will be a great selling feature. I just returned from the soon-to-open Four Seasons Seattle, where they have developed a list of cocktails reflecting the region, such as the Pacific Northwest Cocktail. As you sip the drink, there is a faint aroma of pine needles. It is sensational.

How do you see the hotel beer, wine & spirits business changing?
As consumers become more educated, beverage programs need to respond accordingly. But it’s not about being more sophisticated and highbrow. It’s about being in tune with what is relevant and current. I recently had dinner at Carne Vino Italian Steakhouse in Las Vegas. I ordered a wine that was under $100. The wine manager arrived with a small table on which he had the wine, glasses for us as well as one for himself, and a decanter. There was no tastevin, no candle, no cradle, and no presumption that he knew more than we did about the wine. The process was very professional, yet devoid of the snobbery that traditionally accompanies this type of wine service. This—to me—is the future.

How did you enter the hospitality business? I always had an interest in food and wine, and my mother suggested I go to hotel school. I did a three-year degree at a hotel school in Cheltenham, England. There I met many influential people, including Tony Elliott, owner of the beautiful Greenway Hotel. He gave me my first part-time job in the business while I continued my studies.

What are your favorite wines and why?
That’s a tough question. Simply said, I love wines with flavor and balance, no matter where they are from. I recently had three sensational wines. If you are lucky enough to find them, you will see what I mean. They are: Hugel Riesling, Hommage à Jean Hugel; Château La Mission Haut Brion, 1976 in magnum; and Château Lafite 1970. I don’t drink like this every weekend, it just happened to be my wife’s birthday.

Fred Tibbitts & Associates Inc. is a leading wine-by-the-glass consultant, working with and promoting chains around the world. Contact Fred at fredbev@fredtibbitts.com.