We’re still the P.T. Barnums of the industry,” says Bob Zappatelli, VP of F&B for Benchmark Hospitality International, referring to the food and beverage side of the hospitality industry and its entertainment value. To that end, he’s passionate about the key role that servers play in successful restaurants and the need for open-mindedness and flexibility in hiring them.

Zappatelli started in the kitchen. “I’ve been [at Benchmark] 15 years, and I’ve seen a lot,” he says. Servers are essential in creating and delivering a desirable “edgy, hip vibe” to their restaurants, Zappatelli asserts, but adds that many hotels “can get so stringent about hiring policy that they risk losing some of their most valuable people.

“Go to Babo Restaurant in New York City, Brennan’s in New Orleans, or a Smith & Wollensky where good servers make $125 a night, and it’s not uncommon to have a waiter with a ponytail and several earrings,” says Zappatelli. “There are very good clean-cut servers, but many are artistic types such as actors, painters, and musicians. That means tattoos, piercings, different-colored hair, ponytails on men, etc., all things that can put a person at a disadvantage when applying for a front-of-the-house position.

“We have to break away from hair,” he continues. “And we have to understand the difference between what attracts a great server versus what attracts management. To better recruit, we need to recognize that serving talent is being disqualified by hotels because of appearance issues and move away from such a staunch approach.”

RECOGNIZING TALENT
Not everyone with a unique look and attitude can be a good server. Beyond appearances, what does Zappatelli look for? “We used to go primarily on skill set and look closely at backgrounds,” he says. “Now, I want to know their threshold for pain. When I worked for David Everett at the Blue Talon Bistro in Williamsburg, Virginia, I knew what his personal expectations were, first and foremost. Chefs and front-house management have expectations, and some are militaristic in nature. So waiters must keep a stiff upper lip. The need for total buy-in is imperative.

“We still look at skill set as one measure, but we need employees who are committed to the trade—dedicated souls even willing to pick up trash,” says Zappatelli.

The green movement, so big now, is often an excellent fit for edgier servers. Zappatelli believes they usually have a genuine concern about how food comes out of the earth and how it gets to the table. “I want them to tell me what they know about the environment and farm-to-table issues.

“I don’t want them to tell me the basic steps of service because they should know that, and they’re going to learn mine anyway,” says Zappatelli. “What they do in their spare time is extremely relevant. I want to see that their job fits with their passion, such as watching the Food Channel, for example.”

WHO ARE THEY?
When allowed to be themselves, those with unique personalities bring more to the table, Zappatelli stresses. And these special qualities cross generations. “We have a lot of great Baby Boomers in our field who are career servers.

“The market may have been shrinking for those wanting to be servers, but the changing economy has opened up a hiring advantage.” And, although many more want to be servers because of the current climate, they aren’t all qualified, Zappatelli says.

This applies to other F&B positions as well. Zappatelli recalls a not-so-good hiring experience. “The young man had come from Circuit City with no prior experience. I was concerned because I’m used to people whose grandparents were in the business,” Zappatelli says. “Hiring him was not a good decision. He didn’t want to be part of the food scene. It was strictly based on the need for a job and a way to make an easy buck. F&B, across the board, is not the way to make an easy buck. From kitchen to restaurant to purveying product, it must be a passion. If you are good and dedicated, the money follows.”

CROSS-UTILIZATION
Zappatelli believes most hotels try to cross-utilize banquet and restaurant servers and end up with the short end of the stick. He says many banquet servers are there for the part-time opportunity and are not waiters by profession. “Banquet servers overall are not as adept at the art of selling and attention to detail needed for great restaurant service,” says Zappatelli.

On the other hand, restaurant servers can work banquets well, particularly because much of banquet service now offers multiple entrées and wines, requiring a restaurant server mentality.

Benchmark values what someone who doesn’t fit a mold can bring to the company. But there is a very high expectation of hygiene. It’s okay to have a ponytail and sport several earrings, but Zappatelli knows customers want a certain predictability and comfort level.

Zappatelli has had personal experience with being distinctive. When he started at Benchmark, the first order was “to wear a toque.” He had a ponytail, and it wouldn’t work. Fortunately, the company was flexible on this point.

“I still wouldn’t think twice about putting my whites on and going into the kitchen. Many applying for these jobs don’t appreciate the art and stress involved,” says Zappatelli. “But the good ones thrive on that.”

Margaret Rose Caro is editor of HOTEL F&B.