The best servers adjust and flow with the ever-changing moods and pocketbooks of guests. In the Meal Designer Series, we’ll explore effective approaches to common kinds of diners, including economizers, reluctant analyzers, sophisticated diners, and jackpot tables, to enhance the guest experience and maximize sales.

It was a Thursday night in May, and I saw a man sitting by himself at the end of the black marble bar at Paolo’s in the Georgetown section of Washington, D.C. Dressed in a gray suit, he was scoping out the joint, like maybe he was from the CIA. I noticed he was looking at our wine display, about 15 feet away. “Sir, are you interested in Italian wine?” I asked. “Well, I drink a lot of wine but don’t know much about the Italian wines,” he replied. “Okay,” I said. “I’ll be right back with a wine list.” I then rushed off to deliver a bottle of Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio and an Absolut on the rocks to Table 18.

1. BE ALERT TO FIRST-TIME GUESTS.
Instead of showing him the wine list when I returned, I said, “Sir, if you’d allow me to escort you to our wine display, I’ll tell you all about our Italian wines.” He obliged. “At the top of the case, you’ll find wines from Italy’s Piedmont region. That’s where they produce the full-bodied, rich, dry, high-alcohol reds known as Barolo wines. In the middle of the case, you’ll find Tuscan wines produced near Florence. Here is the Ruffino Ducale Reserva Chianti Gold label, which is rich and dry with flavors of sour cherry and coffee. At the bottom, you’ll find Corvo white and red Sicilian table wines.”

2. OFFER GIFTS.
I escorted the guest back to his stool at the end of the bar and asked our service bartender to pour a small glass of Corvo red for him. Setting the glass down on a beverage napkin, I also gave him our housemade breadsticks and tapenade. “Please enjoy,” I said.

Warming up, the mystery guest asked, “What’s your name?” “I’m Bob Brown,” I replied. “I’m Commander Whitestone,” he added. “It’s a pleasure to meet you. I travel to D.C. often, and this is one of the nicest things anyone has done for me.”

3. REMEMBER, SELLING BEGINS AT THE DOOR.
On that Thursday night in May, I got busy and wasn’t able to say goodbye to the commander. Months went by. Then, during the busy week between Christmas and New Year’s, the commander walked in. Since selling begins at the door, I quickly moved to the host stand and shook his hand.

“Commander, welcome back. I haven’t seen you in months.” “Well, Bob, I’ve moved to D.C., and I’m here tonight with my wife Deloris, our son and daughter, and our friends visiting from Cincinnati,” he said.

4. USE THE LEADER/BUYER.
“You look all dressed up. Celebrating?” I inquired. “It’s my wife’s birthday,” the commander said, smiling. With the help of the host, I escorted the birthday party to my six-top, Table 18. After assisting each guest with their chairs, jackets, and a few gifts, I whispered into the commander’s ear, “This calls for Moët White Star Champagne.” I always like to form a partnership with the leader/buyer. Naturally, he went for the Champagne, as well as bottles of Acqua Panna still and San Pellegrino sparkling waters. When I returned, I kicked off the festivities by proposing a toast.

5. MAKE CREATIVE SUGGESTIONS.
“Please allow me to suggest a couple of our appetizer pizzas, the white and the pesto. Then, I’d recommend sharing the calamari and the ravioli. We also offer an excellent scratch-made minestrone soup as well as a tasty Caesar salad,” I added. “For an entrée, if you’d like to treat yourself, don’t miss our Shell Bowl with steamed mussels, steamed clams, and grilled shrimp or our broiled Red Snapper, painted with pesto and placed atop house marinara,” I continued.

6. ORCHESTRATE THE FESTIVITIES.
After the commander got an enthusiastic thumbs-up from his wife, I carefully timed the orders so there was a seamless flow between appetizers, soups, salads, and entrées. After the shared pizza and appetizer course, I pulled the commander aside and reminded him of the Ruffino Ducale Reserva Chianti and Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio. Adding to the spirit of celebration, I opened a bottle of each. I noticed that one of the commander’s friends put his wine glass upside down. I took the hint and brought out a cold bottle of Italian Peroni beer, and he was in.

7. END ON A HIGH NOTE.
After the entrées, I cleared the table and placed a fork and spoon in front of each guest. Then, I surreptitiously assembled our band of singers in the side station: resident actor Wayne, choir director Brett, part-time music man Tony, and former recording artist, me. After subtly muting both the lights and house music, we sang our best “Happy Birthday” in glorious four-part harmony. Wayne and Brett’s harmonized falsetto created a bring-down-the-house standing ovation. And, on cue, Chef Adam brought out a beautiful flourless chocolate cake adorned with candles and a rose. With the commander’s approval, I added snifters of Sambuca, Baileys, and amaretto and summoned orders for cappuccinos and espressos.

For the grand finale, I asked Chef Adam to steam the label off of the Moët White Star. I pasted the label on a hard check and wrote in the relevant details before handing it to Deloris. All were impressed, and, from that point on, the commander dined with me at least once a week for the next three years.

Sure, today’s guests are looking for value in a down-turned world, but they want to lighten up, too. Most importantly, they’re seeking a caring and creative orchestration, however modest or lavish, on their special occasions.

I learned four important lessons about the celebration diner:

• Remember that everyone is a potential lifetime guest. Small acts of kindness pay off.
  
• Build a partnership with the leader/buyer. He or she will take many of your suggestions.
  
• Avoid the mundane. Think up creative mementos: Steam off Champagne labels, take a digital photo and e-mail it, etc.
  
• Use the diverse talents of your team for dramatic effect—the chef, host, bussers, and fellow servers. And, remember, sing only if you can sing well!