The popularity of culinary travel is inspiring hoteliers toward more resonant and culturally inspired food and beverage programs and innovative menu design. Executive Chef Warren Schwartz of Whist at the Viceroy Hotel in Santa Monica talks about Warren’s Culinary Journals, a special section of the Whist menu that includes unique, memorable dishes and mini-travelogues from Chef Schwartz’s own vacation travels.

How and when was this “culinary journal” concept generated?
About a year ago, I noticed when I returned from vacation that one of the first questions my friends asked was, “What was the food like?” Those answers seemed to provide a vibrant snapshot of what the place was about and what the culture was like. At that point, I thought it would be cool to replicate some of the unforgettable foods I sampled—to bring the flavors and the back story home to our restaurant guests. Something as simple as a visit to a fish shack on the beach inspired me to re-create both the dish itself and to relate the story about it. The setting, the people, the flavors—all of that served as inspiration. I am always looking for something different and the chance to break out of the box.

A handful of dishes distinguishes this portion of your menu.What are some of the most unique features on the current menu?
The Patlican Musakka is an interesting twist on the traditional moussaka typically associated with Greek cuisine. This version was inspired by a Turkish dish I shared with my friend Clark at a small restaurant outside the main city gates in Istanbul. I add currants, providing a sweet element to the lamb and béchamel sauce. Another dish that was fun to translate was a Croatian veal recipe. My girlfriend is Croatian and prompted my visit there. The veal “under a bell” is probably my favorite dish, an homage to a small rural community south of Dubrovnik, and my memory of an afternoon spent at a little riverside restaurant there, drinking homemade wine and enjoying this great veal dish.

In your attempt to depict the rich culinary traditions of the places you visit, are there any limits to what you might offer?
We try to walk the line in featuring authentic flavors without offering anything too weird or offbeat. The thought is to feature interesting, exotic renditions that are still accessible and appealing. Nothing bizarre or unappetizing!

Have you been able to source ingredients fairly easily?
That has been hard. In the beginning, I couldn’t always find things and sometimes had to substitute ingredients. I talked to friends who specialize in various cuisines and explored various flavors I remembered. Sometimes it came down to a physical description like, “It was red and tasted like this.” For example, it took a year for me to find a source for lardo (preserved pork fat). Another sourcing consideration has been my desire to be loyal to my purveyors of local and sustainable products. That factors heavily.

How does your career background inform your culinary menu?
I am French trained and have worked at the Lark Creek Inn, Patina, and the Saddle Peak Lodge, so that does inform. But I really try to see through to the flavors of each dish. I guess I am a purist in that sense, trying to authenticate each recipe and steer clear of mixing it up. It seems blasphemous somehow. I am very committed to keeping it real.

What has the reaction been to Warren’s Culinary Journals?
I wasn’t sure how well these items would go over, but we have been selling the heck out of the culinary menu. People seem to enjoy the opportunity to escape to another corner of the world without leaving home, to think about and imagine the place through the culture of food. They love coming back and seeing new features on the menu, as we add them quarterly. It’s great to stimulate the guest’s imagination along with their taste buds, to send them away with something more. That’s always the goal.

Nancy Fox is a frequent contributor to HOTEL F&B.